Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine - Revision history

Dnevil at 15:00, 3 April 2024

2024-04-03T15:00:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:00, 3 April 2024
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	Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine		Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine

	by Kenneth Stanaback		by [[Kenneth Stanaback]]

	<i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956		<i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956

Dnevil: /* Gallery */

2022-08-19T16:15:32Z

Gallery

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	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
	File:Power reverse by squandt 20220817.jpg\|A version of Kenneth Stanaback's Power Reverse gear built by ~~"squandt"~~, August 2022. It is going on a 4-8-4 Northern in 3/4 scale locomotive.		File:Power reverse by squandt 20220817.jpg\|A version of Kenneth Stanaback's Power Reverse gear built by Stephen Quandt, August 2022. It is going on a 4-8-4 Northern in 3/4 scale locomotive.
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Dnevil: /* Gallery */

2022-08-18T13:59:01Z

Gallery

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:59, 18 August 2022
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	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
			File:Power reverse by squandt 20220817.jpg\|A version of Kenneth Stanaback's Power Reverse gear built by "squandt", August 2022. It is going on a 4-8-4 Northern in 3/4 scale locomotive.
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Dnevil: /* References */

2022-08-18T13:57:21Z

References

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:57, 18 August 2022
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	[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure5.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 5]]		[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure5.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 5]]

			== Gallery ==

			<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
			</gallery>

	== References ==		== References ==

	* [[Power reverse]]		* [[Power reverse]]

Dnevil at 14:26, 22 October 2018

2018-10-22T14:26:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:26, 22 October 2018
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	Put in valve position so holes '''A''' and '''B''' are parallel with base,		Put in valve position so holes '''A''' and '''B''' are parallel with base,
	turn clockwise till ~~vavle~~ port on the left moves an amount equal to its		turn clockwise till valve port on the left moves an amount equal to its
	diameter. We will call this port '''A'''. Now using a No. 52 drill, drill to		diameter. We will call this port '''A'''. Now using a No. 52 drill, drill to
	a depth of 1/4 inch. Turn back counter-clockwise till edge of drilled hole		a depth of 1/4 inch. Turn back counter-clockwise till edge of drilled hole

Dnevil at 15:23, 4 March 2015

2015-03-04T15:23:52Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:23, 4 March 2015
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	[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure5.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 5]]		[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure5.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 5]]

			== References ==

			* [[Power reverse]]

Dnevil at 05:22, 7 December 2014

2014-12-07T05:22:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:22, 7 December 2014
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	<i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956		<i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956

			[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure1.jpg\|thumb\|right\|400px\|Figure 1]]

	Here is a power reverse unit, patterned after the Franklin type. Designed and		Here is a power reverse unit, patterned after the Franklin type. Designed and
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	off to length. Make base as per drawing, drill no passages yet, and silver		off to length. Make base as per drawing, drill no passages yet, and silver
	solder together.		solder together.

			[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|400px\|Figure 2]]

	Put in valve position so holes '''A''' and '''B''' are parallel with base,		Put in valve position so holes '''A''' and '''B''' are parallel with base,
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	I hope that I have made the drawings and explanation of the valve clear		I hope that I have made the drawings and explanation of the valve clear
	enough.		enough.

			[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure3.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 3]]

			[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure4.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 4]]

			[[File:KennethStanaback PowerReverse Figure5.jpg\|thumb\|center\|600px\|Figure 5]]

Dnevil at 05:02, 7 December 2014

2014-12-07T05:02:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:02, 7 December 2014
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	by Kenneth Stanaback		by Kenneth Stanaback

	</i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956		<i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956

	Here is a power reverse unit, patterned after the Franklin type. Designed and		Here is a power reverse unit, patterned after the Franklin type. Designed and

Dnevil: Created page with "Category:Construction Category:Steam Locomotive Parts Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine by Kenneth Stanaback The North American Live Steamer, March 1..."

2014-12-07T05:01:48Z

Created page with "Category:Construction Category:Steam Locomotive Parts Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine by Kenneth Stanaback </i>The North American Live Steamer</i>, March 1..."

New page

[[Category:Construction]]
[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
Build a Power Reverse for Your Engine

by Kenneth Stanaback

</i>[[The North American Live Steamer]]</i>, March 1956

Here is a power reverse unit, patterned after the Franklin type. Designed and
built to operate hydraulically, it will also serve satisfactorily on either
steam or air. I built the unit for hydraulic action, using water direct from
and at boiler pressure. Under these conditions it is very smooth in operation
and neither kicks or drifts, and absolutely locks your reverse shaft arm to
any cut off desired.

When using any power reverse mechanism in place of the manual operation, it is
necessary to either replace your present reverse lever and quandrant with a
smaller uit or drop your reach rod to a point nearer the pivot as the travel
needed with the power unit is much less than the amount necessary for manual
operation.

These drawings are for 1-inch scale. If you wish to construct it in 3/4 inch
scale, merely reduce all cylinder and control rods by 1/4, but build the valve
to the sizes shown. It will be hard to make the valve any smaller and have
good operation. (Don't let me deter you in this though, if you can build the
valve smaller, more power to you.)

There is not much use in using a lot of space in telling you how to do this
job as each piece is simple in itself. Just follow the dimensions and it will
fit together perfectly, and WILL WORK.

Make the valve as shown FIRST. Chuck a piece of 1/2 inch drill rod in the
lathe, turn the stem to 0.010 oversize and about 1/64 inches short. Turn
outside diameter to 7/16+0.010. Then with a sharp tool bit put a mark in what
will be the face of the valve (shown as '''F''' in the drawing), half-way
between the stem and outside diameter. Remove from the lathe. With your
scribers set off and drill two No. 52 holes 19/64 inches apart center to
center and about 1/8 inch deep. Now measure off distance '''X''' from both
'''A''' and '''B''' holes and drill holes '''C''' and '''D''', but only 3/64
inches deep. I woul duse a drill 4 or 5 sizes smaller for holes '''C''' and
'''D''', then enlarge them to bring Distance '''X''' to the same scaled
dimensions as the diameter of holes '''A''' and '''B'''. If '''C''' and
'''D''' do not touch together, chip out web. When this is done, replace in
lathe, finish stem to size and face off '''F'''. Both should be very smooth.
The stem can be polished by hand, but do NOT file or otherwise hand finish
face '''F'''. it must be absolutely flat. Cut off to thickness 1/16 or 5/64
inches.

Turn valve housing, ream for stem, cut 1/2 inches 40 thread, face off and cut
off to length. Make base as per drawing, drill no passages yet, and silver
solder together.

Put in valve position so holes '''A''' and '''B''' are parallel with base,
turn clockwise till vavle port on the left moves an amount equal to its
diameter. We will call this port '''A'''. Now using a No. 52 drill, drill to
a depth of 1/4 inch. Turn back counter-clockwise till edge of drilled hole
disappears. Now while the valve is in this position, (don't let it move) with
a very sharp scriber, mark a short arc at the lower edge of the same port in
the valve housing face. GOOD! Now turn the valve counter-clockwise until the
scribe mark disappears from the upper edge of port '''A''' and just a frog's
hair more for good measure. Now drill port '''B''' with the same size drill
and to the same depth.

Now, how close did you follow directions? Fi when your valve is centered
again you can see nothing through the valve port but a plank brass face and
then by turning the valve that same frog's hair in either direction a port
starts to crack open in one or the other of the valve holes, you win the hole
in the don-nut, and I'll throw in the aforementioned frog's hair for good
measure.

All that's left is to drill the exhaust port in the middle of the arc between
ports '''A''' and '''B''', come in from the top with your connecting hole, and
tap for the size pipe used. (I used 1/8th or 5-40 thread.)

Drill the passages from the bottom to connect with port holes and with
passages in cylinder. The rest of the job is fairly simple and with a good
valve will give service indefinitely.

For piston packing, I used an O ring. They do not leak and are lubricated by
the water. The main thing is not to fit them too tight.

I hope that I have made the drawings and explanation of the valve clear
enough.