Location Design and Trackwork - Revision history

Dnevil: /* Drainage */

2020-11-19T18:53:00Z

Drainage

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:53, 19 November 2020
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	== Drainage ==		== Drainage ==

	Consider the existing flow of water, both streams and runoff from rain or melting snow. Tracks are usually raised somewhat above the adjacent ground and can quickly become a dam. Small flows can use a culvert (pipe) under the track, Larger flows may require a bridge.		Consider the existing flow of water, both streams and runoff from rain or melting snow. Tracks are usually raised somewhat above the adjacent ground and can quickly become a dam. Small flows can use a [[Culvert\|culvert (pipe)]] under the track, Larger flows may require a bridge.

	Ground that slopes towards the track will result in flow towards the track. If uncontrolled, this may wash mud or debris into the rock ballest making it unable to properly hold the track. The usual way of addressing this is to place a V-bottomed ditch along one or both sides of the track to turn the water flow parallel to the track and route it to a point where it will either flow away from the track or can be ran into a culvert, drain or stream. Lowering the track below the surrounding ground (commonly called a “cut”) will require a ditch on both sides.		Ground that slopes towards the track will result in flow towards the track. If uncontrolled, this may wash mud or debris into the rock ballest making it unable to properly hold the track. The usual way of addressing this is to place a V-bottomed ditch along one or both sides of the track to turn the water flow parallel to the track and route it to a point where it will either flow away from the track or can be ran into a culvert, drain or stream. Lowering the track below the surrounding ground (commonly called a “cut”) will require a ditch on both sides.

Dnevil at 18:02, 9 July 2015

2015-07-09T18:02:26Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:02, 9 July 2015
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	[[Category:Right of Way]]		[[Category:Right of Way]]
			[[Category:Maintenance]]
	[[Category:Beginners]]		[[Category:Beginners]]
	by Bill Donovan, <i>[[Real Trains Inc]]</i>		by Bill Donovan, <i>[[Real Trains Inc]]</i>

Dnevil: /* Ballast Choice */

2013-09-30T03:21:04Z

Ballast Choice

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:21, 29 September 2013
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	Normally 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge or larger trackwork uses a gravel referred to as “3/4 minus crush”. Smaller gauges may use 3/8 minus crush. This material has a range of sizes that allow it to be compacted around and under the ties when leveling the track. Crushed rock has sharp corners and will hold much better than other types of rock. If using wood ties make sure that the ballast is under, as well as around the ties to allow water to drain completely away from them. It is not recommended that you use concrete, paved areas, or other hard surfaces to support your track as the ties will tend to slide on these surfaces and leveling will be difficult. Products such as rock dust or slag that will set up hard over time should not be used for ballast.		Normally 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge or larger trackwork uses a gravel referred to as “3/4 minus crush”. Smaller gauges may use 3/8 minus crush. This material has a range of sizes that allow it to be compacted around and under the ties when leveling the track. Crushed rock has sharp corners and will hold much better than other types of rock. If using wood ties make sure that the ballast is under, as well as around the ties to allow water to drain completely away from them. It is not recommended that you use concrete, paved areas, or other hard surfaces to support your track as the ties will tend to slide on these surfaces and leveling will be difficult. Products such as rock dust or slag that will set up hard over time should not be used for ballast.

			See also [[Decomposed granite]].

	== Road Crossings ==		== Road Crossings ==

Dnevil at 02:57, 30 September 2013

2013-09-30T02:57:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:57, 29 September 2013
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	[[Category:Right of Way]]		[[Category:Right of Way]]
			[[Category:Beginners]]
	by Bill Donovan, <i>[[Real Trains Inc]]</i>		by Bill Donovan, <i>[[Real Trains Inc]]</i>

Dnevil: /* Road Crossings */

2013-09-30T02:56:41Z

Road Crossings

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:56, 29 September 2013
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	This assembly is embedded in concrete at least 4 inches thick and extending well beyond the width of the track. When finishing the concrete it should be flush with the top of the angle. Form a groove for the wheel flange along the inside edges using a groove forming tool intended to make this shape in concrete work.		This assembly is embedded in concrete at least 4 inches thick and extending well beyond the width of the track. When finishing the concrete it should be flush with the top of the angle. Form a groove for the wheel flange along the inside edges using a groove forming tool intended to make this shape in concrete work.

			== Laying Track ==

			You will find that the simplest way to lay track panels is to place them directly on the dirt, geotextile, or plastic film of your roadbed. You should adjust curves and install joint bars to get a finished track before you install ballast.

			Ballast can then simply be dumped over the track. Use a rod with a hook formed on its end (a sprinkler valve wrench from the hardware store makes a good starting place for this) to pull the track up through the ballast so that some rock is under the ties and use your judgment to establish the approximate level of the track. Add more ballast as needed and tamp the rock to hold the ties (the end of a shovel handle makes a good tamper). Use whatever levels or other equipment you have to gradually work the track into its desired slopes, curves, etc. When finished you should have ballest almost to the tops of the ties and extending at least a few inches wider than the length of the ties.

			You should be careful to make sure the track is level from side to side. Variations up and down along the length of the track may look funny and will feel like a roller coaster but will generally not cause a derailment. Small variations from side to side on the other hand will cause all sorts of problems that are often hard for the beginner to find. Spend time and check this carefully.

			== Maintenance ==

			You will find that newly laid track will settle no matter how careful you are in first laying it. Plan on some time to recheck and adjust your track during the first season of its operation. In areas where the ground freezes you must also plan on some work each spring as the ground thaws.

			© Copyright 2013, [[Real Trains Inc\|Real Trains, Inc.]]

			Used with permission.

Dnevil: /* Ballast Choice */

2013-09-30T02:49:40Z

Ballast Choice

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:49, 29 September 2013
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	Normally 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge or larger trackwork uses a gravel referred to as “3/4 minus crush”. Smaller gauges may use 3/8 minus crush. This material has a range of sizes that allow it to be compacted around and under the ties when leveling the track. Crushed rock has sharp corners and will hold much better than other types of rock. If using wood ties make sure that the ballast is under, as well as around the ties to allow water to drain completely away from them. It is not recommended that you use concrete, paved areas, or other hard surfaces to support your track as the ties will tend to slide on these surfaces and leveling will be difficult. Products such as rock dust or slag that will set up hard over time should not be used for ballast.		Normally 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge or larger trackwork uses a gravel referred to as “3/4 minus crush”. Smaller gauges may use 3/8 minus crush. This material has a range of sizes that allow it to be compacted around and under the ties when leveling the track. Crushed rock has sharp corners and will hold much better than other types of rock. If using wood ties make sure that the ballast is under, as well as around the ties to allow water to drain completely away from them. It is not recommended that you use concrete, paved areas, or other hard surfaces to support your track as the ties will tend to slide on these surfaces and leveling will be difficult. Products such as rock dust or slag that will set up hard over time should not be used for ballast.

			== Road Crossings ==

			[[File:Road Crossing Bill Donovan Real Trains Inc.png\|thumb\|right\|400px\|Road Crossing]]

			There are many methods of making road or path crossings. However, many of these will result in an area that requires a lot of maintenance or produces unreliable operation. The method described here (see drawing) has been widely used and proven to work well.

			Obtain steel angle (commonly called “angle iron”) of about the same height as your rail. The type that is most desirable has a round edge profile as opposed to a sharp corner. You will use the top edge as the rail with the one side vertical and the bottom side horizontal, The bottom may turn in towards the other rail or outwards. Bolt or weld a flat bar across the bottom every few feet to hold two pieces in gauge.

			This assembly is embedded in concrete at least 4 inches thick and extending well beyond the width of the track. When finishing the concrete it should be flush with the top of the angle. Form a groove for the wheel flange along the inside edges using a groove forming tool intended to make this shape in concrete work.

Dnevil: /* Joint Bar Installation */

2013-09-30T02:44:49Z

Joint Bar Installation

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:44, 29 September 2013
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	Joint bars are placed one on each side of the rail. Use a machine screw or hex head bolt through the holes with the heads located between the rails (so that the nuts will be on the outside). Install nylon insert type lock nuts on to the bolts. These nuts are self-locking and become harder to turn before they are fully tight. Make sure that all bolts are properly, but not overly tightened. You must allow the joint to move so make sure they are not excessively tight. These type of nuts are required since you cannot fully tighten them.		Joint bars are placed one on each side of the rail. Use a machine screw or hex head bolt through the holes with the heads located between the rails (so that the nuts will be on the outside). Install nylon insert type lock nuts on to the bolts. These nuts are self-locking and become harder to turn before they are fully tight. Make sure that all bolts are properly, but not overly tightened. You must allow the joint to move so make sure they are not excessively tight. These type of nuts are required since you cannot fully tighten them.

			== Track Panel Pre-Assembly and Installation ==

			If you are going to lay more than a small amount of track you may want to take the time to build a fixture that holds the ties at the proper spacing and then holds the rails at the proper gauge. There are about as many ways to do this as there are people doing it so no design is given here but a visit to a local club will usually show what they do.

			In most cases where a lot of track is being laid the minimum radius of the curves is fairly large. In this case you will usually only build a jig and track panels that are straight. This is because it is possible to “bow” a straight panel to the needed curve. In doing this the rail slips under the track screws to allow the curve to be formed (remember that the rail must be free enough to move with changes in temperature). When laying track this way start with a straight section and assemble panels as needed. When you come to a curve you should continue to assemble two or three more straight panels in a straight line. Then drag the track sideways as needed to make the curve. Leave about half the last panel straight to better join the next panels to be added and curve it after they are added. When bending the panels this way you will find one rail getting longer than the other, simply cut off the excess and then make new holes for the joint bars. Then add two or three more straight panels and repeat the operations as needed.

			== Rail Bending ==

			If you are going to have tight curves you may need to bend rail before assembling it to the ties. Steel rail is much more likely to need pre-bending and is more difficult to bend than aluminum. The easiest way to do bending is with a machine specifically intended for this. These are available from various suppliers or can be made.

			You may also bend limited amounts of rail by making a template. Use a piece of plywood that is thin enough to fit into the side of the rail below the head and above the flange. Cut the edge of the plywood to a radius somewhat smaller than your final requirement. You need to allow for the fact that the rail will spring back by over bending it. Also, realize that you only need to come close as the final radius can be adjusted when laying using the natural spring of the rail. Use your plywood template by clamping the rail around the edge at one end and then working your way down the edge pushing the rail up against the edge of the plywood. The plywood template keeps you from making too tight a curve which would result in a kink. When you reach the end of the template, unclamp the rail, and reposition it to continue the bending further down the length of the rail.

			== Ballast Choice ==

			Normally 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge or larger trackwork uses a gravel referred to as “3/4 minus crush”. Smaller gauges may use 3/8 minus crush. This material has a range of sizes that allow it to be compacted around and under the ties when leveling the track. Crushed rock has sharp corners and will hold much better than other types of rock. If using wood ties make sure that the ballast is under, as well as around the ties to allow water to drain completely away from them. It is not recommended that you use concrete, paved areas, or other hard surfaces to support your track as the ties will tend to slide on these surfaces and leveling will be difficult. Products such as rock dust or slag that will set up hard over time should not be used for ballast.

Dnevil: /* Track Screws */

2013-09-30T02:34:40Z

Track Screws

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:34, 29 September 2013
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	When installing track screws they should be placed vertically (see right side of drawing) and driven straight downwards. Since the base of the rail slopes it is natural to want to drive screws at that same angle but it is not recommended. Screws placed at an angle will allow the rail to move sideways out of gauge if they come loose. Screws driven vertically will maintain gauge even if loose. The screws should also be located so that the side of the screw does not cut into the edge of the rail. Install the screw until the head touches the base of the rail (left side of drawing). The screws should only slightly touch the rail. This allows the rail to slide through the tie as it expands and contracts with temperature.		When installing track screws they should be placed vertically (see right side of drawing) and driven straight downwards. Since the base of the rail slopes it is natural to want to drive screws at that same angle but it is not recommended. Screws placed at an angle will allow the rail to move sideways out of gauge if they come loose. Screws driven vertically will maintain gauge even if loose. The screws should also be located so that the side of the screw does not cut into the edge of the rail. Install the screw until the head touches the base of the rail (left side of drawing). The screws should only slightly touch the rail. This allows the rail to slide through the tie as it expands and contracts with temperature.

			== Rail Joints ==

			[[File:Rail Joiners Bill Donovan Real Trains Inc.png\|thumb\|right\|400px\|Rail joiners]]

			It is necessary to provide for rail expansion and contraction. How this is done depends on the design of the rail and its available joint bars. Vertical alignment of the rail must be maintained while horizontal movement is allowed.

			The most basic method is to place the joint on a tie and to use track screws on both rail ends to hold them down to the tie. Use care in locating these track screws so that they do not interfere with the installation of the bolts and nuts that hold the joint bars.

			If the joint bar has a scale profile, that is it fits into the side of the rail and fills the space between the underside of the head of the rail and the top of the base of the rail (see drawing), it will maintain vertical alignment. Horizontal movement is then allowed by drilling the hole in the rail (but not the joint bar) considerably larger than the size of the bolt used to assemble the joint. This allows the joint bars to slide along the rail.

			If this type of joint bar is not available then alignment must be maintained by the bolts through the joint bar and rail. This requires that the size of the hole in the rail in the vertical direction must be the same as the size of the bolt (and the hole in the joint bar), while the opening in the rail must be wider in the horizontal direction (i.e., a slot instead of a round hole). Producing these slots often requires the development of a special tool.

			The oversize hole or slot must always be in the rail to prevent the bolt head or nut from catching on the edge of the hole or slot. This also keeps dirt out of the opening.

			If installing a considerable amount of track it is usually best to put the holes or slots in both ends of all of the rail before assembling into track. The few cases where the rail must be cut and the holes or slots not used are offset by the relative ease of doing the work in a shop as opposed to in the field. For round holes you can set up a fixture on a drill press and pre-drill the holes.

			The size of the screws or bolts used must match the joint bars and depends on the size of the rail. Small rails used for 5 inch gauge or less generally use a #4. 7-1/2 inch or 7-1/4 inch gauge use a #10. Larger rails use bolts of 1/4 inch or larger. The same considerations of stainless steel versus zinc plated steel apply as discussed for track screws.

			== Joint Bar Installation ==

			When joining two rails you must estimate how much gap is needed depending on the temperature at time of installation. In general, it is better to have a gap too wide than too narrow. Rail will seldom pull itself up out of the ground at low temperatures while it can much more easily develop kinks due to high temperature expansion. As an example, on the hottest day of the year rail can be laid with little or no gap. If the temperature is half way between summer and winter, one half of the maximum gap may be assumed as a good starting place.

			Joint bars are placed one on each side of the rail. Use a machine screw or hex head bolt through the holes with the heads located between the rails (so that the nuts will be on the outside). Install nylon insert type lock nuts on to the bolts. These nuts are self-locking and become harder to turn before they are fully tight. Make sure that all bolts are properly, but not overly tightened. You must allow the joint to move so make sure they are not excessively tight. These type of nuts are required since you cannot fully tighten them.

Dnevil: /* Track Screws */

2013-09-30T02:16:52Z

Track Screws

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:16, 29 September 2013
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	== Track Screws ==		== Track Screws ==

	[[File:Securing Rail to Ties Bill Donovan Real Trains Inc.png\|thumb\|right\|400px]]		[[File:Securing Rail to Ties Bill Donovan Real Trains Inc.png\|thumb\|right\|400px\|The proper way to secure track to ties using screws.]]

	The rail is most commonly attached to the ties using track screws. These typically have a 5/16 inch hex head and a self drilling point. While they are available in stainless steel the fact that it is not magnetic will slow installation since a magnetic bit cannot be used to hold the screws. Based on the experience of many clubs it has been found that stainless steel screws corrode about as soon as plain zinc plated ones rust so their much higher cost is not warranted.		The rail is most commonly attached to the ties using track screws. These typically have a 5/16 inch hex head and a self drilling point. While they are available in stainless steel the fact that it is not magnetic will slow installation since a magnetic bit cannot be used to hold the screws. Based on the experience of many clubs it has been found that stainless steel screws corrode about as soon as plain zinc plated ones rust so their much higher cost is not warranted.

Dnevil: /* Track Screws */

2013-09-30T02:16:09Z

Track Screws

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:16, 29 September 2013
Line 67:		Line 67:

	== Track Screws ==		== Track Screws ==

			[[File:Securing Rail to Ties Bill Donovan Real Trains Inc.png\|thumb\|right\|400px]]

	The rail is most commonly attached to the ties using track screws. These typically have a 5/16 inch hex head and a self drilling point. While they are available in stainless steel the fact that it is not magnetic will slow installation since a magnetic bit cannot be used to hold the screws. Based on the experience of many clubs it has been found that stainless steel screws corrode about as soon as plain zinc plated ones rust so their much higher cost is not warranted.		The rail is most commonly attached to the ties using track screws. These typically have a 5/16 inch hex head and a self drilling point. While they are available in stainless steel the fact that it is not magnetic will slow installation since a magnetic bit cannot be used to hold the screws. Based on the experience of many clubs it has been found that stainless steel screws corrode about as soon as plain zinc plated ones rust so their much higher cost is not warranted.